الخميس، 7 أكتوبر 2010
With white, ch3, join.
Word of Caution:Make sure to keep track of your yarn, as it's easy for them to get tangled during this whole process. I wasn't paying attention for the first good half of the project and then wasted 15 minutes untangling everything - it's really not a good use of time. Spare the three seconds it takes to move the balls around when switching colors and save yourself many hassles :)
مرسلة بواسطة damascene في 5:48 م
To make the Rose Ripple Potholder, you will need a G hook and three colors:
- -Color A is the rose color (in this example, yellow)
- -Color B is the leaf color (in this example, hot lime)
- -Color C is the background color (in this example, white)
Foundation: With color A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring
Round 1: ch 3 to count as first hdc. 8 hdc. (9) Do not join. Mark the first ch 3 with a small piece of contrasting yarn at the base. (9) Rounds 1-2 will be a continuous spiral; do not join, continue in a spiral.
Round 2: Working in back loops, only, make 2 hdc in each st around (18). Do not join.
Round 3: Working in back loops, only, make 2 hdc in each st. Sl st in the back loop of the next st to end the row and break off. (36)
Round 4-6: Still using color A, join with a sl st in the front loop of the first ch 3/hdc that is marked by piece of contrasting yarn. Once you determine this starting st, you can remove the marker and then (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in that same front loop.
In the next 9 front loops in the spiral: (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st). Total of 10 petals.
From here to the end of the spiral, crochet the same sequence: (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in every other front loop: Break off color, bring all yarn tails to the back of this rose and secure the ends.
Round 7: Using color B (leaves), 3 ch in any back loop of the rose to count as first dc. In the same st: dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Ch 1. *Skip 3 back loops, in the fourth back loop: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) ch 1. Repeat from * around for a total of 9 of these sets.
Round 7 is the same as the round nearest to the center in the diagram below.
NOTE: on Rounds 8-11, skip over two stitches from the end of one ripple and two more stitches to start the next ripple. In other words, there are four stitches skipped between ripples. The skipped stitches are seen in red-orange in the diagram below.
Round 8: *In ch 2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc). Repeat from * in all ch 2 spaces around. Break off colorRound 9: This will a round in which there are four dc's going up the ripple to the peak and then, after 2 ch's, four going down to the valley.
With color C (background color), join in any ch 2 sp. Ch 3 (to serve as first dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 2 dc in the top of the next dc, Skip over 4 dc’s and in the top of the one before the ch 2 sp, 2 dc. *In the ch 2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 2 dc in the next st. Repeat from * around and end with 2 dc in the st before the cluster in the ch 2 sp. Sl st to join round.
Round 10: This will be a round in which there will be five dc’s going up the ripple to the peak and 5 going down to the valley.
l st to start in the ch 2 sp. In the ch 2 space, ch 3 (first dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc . Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, Skip four st. [see diagram] 2 dc after the second st in the ripple. 1 dc in the next st. *In the ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. Skip four st. 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to complete the round.
Round 11: This will be a round of hdc’s instead of dc’s. There will be six hdc’s up the ripple to the peak and six going down the ripple to the valley.
Starting in the ch 2 space: (ch 2, hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's, 2 hdc in the next st. Skip four st's. 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's. *in ch 2 sp work (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's, 2 hdc in the next st. Skip 4 st's, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 st's. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to end the round. Break off leaving a 7-inch tail.
مرسلة بواسطة damascene في 5:42 م